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Karakalpakstan is autonomous republic, part of Uzbekistan, located in the north-west of the country. Its area is 165,000 sq. km. Population is over 1, 5 million people. Karakalpakstan borders on Turkmenistan in the south, on Khorezm (Uzbekistan region) in the north and Kazakhstan. Republic’s capital is Nukus city. The most part of the territory is occupied by Ustyurt plateau, Kyzylkum desert and Aral Sea. This region is a cradle of a unique culture, which history is quite rich and distinctive.
First settlements on the territory of present Karakalpakstan are dated from the Stone Age. In VI-VII centuries B.C., a rich antique state of Khorezm existed in the lower Amudarya River, at the boarder of Kyzylkum desert. Khorezm was one of a few number of states were thousands of fortresses were built. They help modern archeologists to read ancient chronicles of the region’s history.
Over two thousand of such settlements were found in Ellikkalinskiy region. Many settlements are situated far from traffic roads, among impassable deserts, and that’s why the most part is not studied yet. Archeologists established that theses settlements were located on the hills, far from the river, as Amudarya frequently changed its course. In this case ancient Khorezm people had to build irrigation canals many kilometers far from the river.
Bank sand and natural clay were use as main building materials of that time. Walls from mud brick were strong and survived till today. Natural stones served as cotter between bricks. These bricks still keep ancient symbols – tamga. Scientists consider these symbols either masters’ sign or signs of royal family.
The most explored settlements of ancient Khorezm are Toprak-Kala, Ayaz-Kala, Kyzyl-kala, Kurk-Kyz-Kala and others.
TOPRAK-KALA
Majestic complex of Toprak-Kala (Earth town), residence of Khorezm rulers in II-IV centuries, was started building in I century A.D. during Kushan empire.
This antique town was discovered in 50 kilometers from the right bank of Amudarya River in 1938 by known archeologist S.P. Tolstov. This Khorezm expedition was an important reference point, which helped to reproduce the history of one of the oldest civilizations. City had a square shape 500 x 350 meters and was surrounded with defensive walls with arched corridor and towers. Scientists discovered palace’s ruins flanked by tree towers in the north-west of the city. In the palace archeologists found a range of painted rooms, “Kings’ room” a dynastic sanctuary with 23 clay figures; “Throne room”, “Victory room”, “Deer’s room’, “Room of dancing masks” and “Room of queen of hearts” with female bás-relief reminding Taro cards.
About 100 living and utility rooms were discovered during excavations, such as: ceramic dishes, several weapons, jewellery, documents on the leather and wood. Transcript of these manuscripts helped scientists to determine historical development of the Ancient Khorezm in that period.
Historians suppose people left this settlement in 200 years after the town was built. It was caused by political situation. In 305, founder of new dynasty Afrig ordered to move the residence in Kass, territory of modern city of Biruni.
Nowadays, UNESCO included Toprak-Kala in list of world cultural heritage.
Ayaz-Kala fortress
Ayaz-Kala fortress, translated as “City on the wind”, is located in 20 kilometers to north-east from Toprak-Kala. This fortress, situated on the top of 60 meters high hill, was a frontier construction. Its walls were bricked, with narrow slits of arrow-shaped loopholes which directed to all worlds’ sides. The entrance was in the south side, in order that wind, which is prevailing in this place blow out sand from the fortress.
The special feature of such defensive construction was entrance- labyrinth which complicated access to enemy.
During excavations archeologists assumed that Ayaz-Kala fortress was built up in IV-III centuries B.C. But a curious is that this fortress never used according to its intended purpose. Scientists did not find any evidence of human habitation, but they discovered a lot of unused building materials.
The landscape of a similar salt lake Ayazkol opens from the top of Ayaz-Kala.
KYZYL- KALA
Another historically important and interesting defensive fortress is Kyzyl-Kala (referred to as Red town), which defended state’s boarders I-XII centuries. Kyzyl-Kala is small in plan (65x65 meters). It was surrounded with double walls with eights meters depth and 15 meters high. Inner fortress had two- storied; the first storey started from 4 meters high plinth to resist battering weapons of enemy.
Kyrk-Kyz Kala
Kyrk-Kyz-Kala (I-IV centuries A.D.) is located in 27 km. to the north from Biruni city. Its name is translated as “Forty girls”. This settlement was discovered and explored during excavations in 1938. Fortress was located in the plain and occupied an area of 65х 63 meters. Outer wall had two stages with arrow-shaped loopholes. Scientists are of opinion that this fortress was built to defense north-eastern borders of the ancient Khorezm. Excavation showed, that fortress consisted of two parts of different layout and connected by gates in the eastern wall. Archeologists found here burial places made in accordance with rites of ancient fire worshippers. Human bones were placed in ceramic jugs- khuma, which had a shape of women’s head. This fortress had been a trade point of the Great Silk Road for a long time.
During ages these fortresses persisted to different occasions of historical and natural characters.
Khorezm endured Arabic invasion and annexation to Arab Caliphate in 712. The state’s flourishing is connected with beginning of powerful state of Khorezmshahs after 4 centuries on the rights bank of Amudarya River. In XIII century, this state could not survive under destructive pressure of Mongols.
After centuries these ancient monuments, historical witnesses, let us imagine events that took place in this land.
Savitskiy‘s museum
One should visit the Karakalpakstan State’s art museum in Nukus, which was named after its founder and first director Igor Savitskiy.
Student of Moscow artistic institute Igor Savitskiy was evacuated in Samarkand city during the II World War. In 1950, he took part in archeology- ethnographical expedition to Karakalpakstan, which was headed by a famous scientist professor Sergey P. Tolstov. Savitskiy was an artist in this expedition.
Besides the history young artist took an interested in culture and art of Karakalpak people. He began collect unique pieces of folk’s applied art. These pieces were forwarded to Moscow’s and St. Petersburg’s museums. Finally, his interest in art of Karakalpaks rose so that he decided to move to Nukus and left his flat in Moscow.
Savitskiy with his assistants traveled all over the north Karakalpakstan. As a result, he created a unique collection of handmade antiques: several jewelers, carpets, national closes, Yurt’s furniture, harness. Folk handicraft used seldom, as it was replaced by machines that time.
In 1966, soviet government established a museum under the request of Savitskiy in Nukus, where the best piece of folk’s applied art were collected and exhibited. He was appointed as museum’s director.
At the same time, Savitskiy participated in archeological excavations of landscapes of the ancient Khorezm. Founds from this exactions filled up the collection of Art museum.
So long as Savitskiy was an artist, he started to be interested in works of local artists that painted nature and life of Central Asian people. Subsequently, he began collecting canvas of artists from other soviet republics, which covered the same topic. These pictures occupy a museum’s big gallery.
Collection of Russian avant-garde pictures of 20-40 years of XX century made Nukus’s museum a world known. This collection is the second in the world by its value after collection of Russian museum in St. Petersburg.
Till the last days of his life Savitskiy was devoted to his great work, collection of unique pieces of art. On July 27, 1984, Savitskiy died in the hospital, in Moscow. But he was buried in Russian cemetery in Nukus.
State’s Art Museum of Savitskiy is a truly treasure, which gives an image of Karakalpakstan culture since III century B.C. till present.
Museum’s doors are open to the whole of world since 1991. People come here to admire unique exhibits collected by Igor Savitskiy from all corners of the world.
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