Uzbek suzanis – warble composed in embroidery

Suzani is a name of the carpet embroidered with silk or cotton fibers. Silk or cotton fabric serves as a basis for its manufacture. Fibers are colored with natural colors. Suzani is an integral part of uzbek people’s life. Ancient time, bride’s portion couldn’t be imagined without suzani.  Carpets served as decoration on the walls as well as an averter. This tedious work was done by women who were taught the art of embroidery from the very childhood. The ornament, colors   and technique play important role in production of beautiful suzani.

Thus, several schools of embroidery art have been formed during long centuries: Nurata, Bukhara, Samarkand, Urgut, Shakhrisabz, Tashkent and Fergana schools. Each school differs from other with specific sewing and original coloring.

Nurata school varies in several floral ornament on the white background: big bouquets in corners, branches with blue, pink, ivory and golden flowers, rosettes, figures of birds and animals.

Bukhara suzani is considered as one of the most beautiful in Central Asia.  Its distinctive feature is application of the tambour stitch. Patterns and compositions are various. The most frequent ornament of Bukhara suzani is a closed composition with marked center and corners and a round rosette as a basic motive. The rosette can have different designs.

Samarkand fancywork comes from art of the ancient Sogdiana. Unlike Nurata and Bukhara schools, Samarkand’s school has bigger and more laconic details of the picture. However, the pattern’s precision is important.  Basic motive of Samarkand art is a round crimson rosette inside cycle of leafs.

Embroidery from Urgut, city of Samarkand region, is quite original. It is represented by suzani made by “bosma” stitch on the white cotton fabric, seldom on the crimson or yellow silk. Blue and yellow stylized patterns in the forms of flowers symbolize the Sun. Sometimes patterns can represent house items: teapots and tea bowls.  Three-dimensional and thick embroidery of Urgut suzani entirely covers all the ware.

A big medallion with medallion’s quarters in corners is on the Shakhrisabz suzanis.   Medallions are multicolored and have geometric ornament. Interesting and expressive embroidery of Shakhrisabz is made with tambour stitch on the colored background.

Embroidery of Tashkent needlewomen differs with quite original style. There are two types of ornamental embroideries: palyak and gulkurpa. Big dark- red circles densely covering the fabric are basic for palyak. Gulkurpa (flower carpet) is decorated with flower patterns. Motives of stylized stars, sun and flowers are essential part both for palyak and gulkurpa ornaments.

Suzanis of Fergana school are usually made on a dark-green or purple silk or sateen, and differ with airy patterns. A cycle rosette composed from concentric rings was the most frequent ornament.

Suzani is a truly piece of art. Embroideries are harmonious songs which are composed in fabric.